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How to Dye Wool for Rug Hooking

Basics for Hand Overdyeing Wools

I have had so many rug hookers ask me about the process of hand-dyeing wools, that I thought it might be helpful to offer this illustrated example to show you what's needed & how to do some simple dye bath dying. Keep in mind that this is the way I do it, but there are many other methods and ideas you can try. I encourage you to take the plunge if you've never tried dyeing wools before -- it is not difficult and doesn't have to be expensive. Once you try it, I am sure you'll want to experiment with other methods for different results. These instructions will help you to visualize the process and get you started -- after that you should feel comfortable with the whole process and more at ease when trying other methods. Click the links in the text if you want to learn more.

Want to alter the color of your wool without dye? Read my Blog to find out how to marble and marry your woolens!

If you have questions, just email and ask. I'll be happy to help you get started.

Step 1 - Gather Your Equipment

IMPORTANT CAUTION: Only use these tools for dyeing -- do not use again for food preparation.

• Dye Pot: enamel (without any chips inside) or stainless steel

• Acid-Reactive Dyes for Wool

• Dye Formulas (recipes)

• Wool

• Synthropol or wetting agent such as Jet Dry for dishwashers

• Glass Jars

• Measuring Spoons 1/32 tsp up to 1 teaspoon

• Glass Measuring Cups

• Tongs for Lifting Wet Wool

• Plastic Fork or Small Whisk

• Rubber Gloves

• White Paper Towels

• Uniodized Table Salt

• White Household Vinegar

• Protective Covering for Yourself & Your Work Surface

Step 2 - Select & Soak the Wool

1. Use from 1/2 to 1 yard of wools, depending upon size of dye pot used. (I can dye 1 to 1 1/2 yards in my 20-qt. stainless steel pot.)

2. Select several different woolens to go into the dye bath. Using solids, plaids, textures, and a variety of colors will give you several wools that will work together. Your recipe should also tell you what colors of wool the recipe works best over. You'll find wool at your local thrift store if you want to recycled it, or check out Dorr Mill and Cushing for really nice ones. There are also lots of places on the web to find hand-dyed and off-the-bolt wool (check my rug hooking links for just a few of them.)

3. Fill a pot or tub with hot water, add Synthropol according to package directions, or use about 3 Tbls. Jet Dry.

4. Add the wool to the pot. Squeeze water through each piece of wool to thoroughly wet it.

5. Allow to soak for 15 to 30 minutes (longer is better.)

Step 3 - Prepare the Dye Bath

1. Select your favorite dye pot and fill it about 2/3 full of water.

2. Add a Tablespoon of uniodized salt, which helps the dye absorb evenly. If you want a mottled effect, omit the salt.

3. Put the pot on the stove & allow it to come to temperature; bring the water just to the boiling point, then turn down to a simmer before you add the dye and wool to the pot.

   Just a note here about my favorite pots shown in the photos -- I use an old enamelware pot to soak my wool (black one), and I use both stainless steel and enamelware to dye in. My enamelware pot is an old slop pot I bought at an antique shop (don't pay over $20.00 for these -- not worth more than that). I like it because it has a lid and a sturdy bail handle. My larger pot is stainless steel and I love it too because I can dye a lot of wool at one time in it -- it is 20 quarts.

Step 4 - Prepare the Dye

1. Wear rubber gloves, and prepare the dye according to the manufacturer's directions. I use Cushing Acid dyes, ProChem dyes for wool, & Aljo dyes - they each have their own prep directions.

2. For most formulas, you'll add the measured dyes to one cup of boiling water (commonly abbreviated as 1 CBW). Dye formulas can include three or more dye colors to be mixed together in the boiling water to achieve the color for dyeing. To prevent the dye colors from intermixing, stir your measuring spoon in a container of dry salt to remove left-over dye between measurement of each color.

3. Use a small whisk or a plastic fork to thoroughly mix the dry dye until it is completely dissolved.

4. When the dye bath is at the simmer, add the dye mixture to the pot and stir gently.

Step 5 - Dye the Wool

1. Add the pre-soaked wool to the dye bath (do not wring the water from the wool). Push the wool to the bottom of the pot, without allowing any wool to poke above the water line.

2. For primitive, mottled color, stir the wool gently only when it first goes into the pot. For more even color, stir when you add the wool, and several times throughout the dye process.

3. Cover the pot and leave it for 30 minutes.

4. Check the wool to see if it is the color intensity you want (it will be lighter when it is dry). If the color is right, add about 1/3 cup of white vinegar to the pot and stir thoroughly.

5. Cover the pot again and allow the vinegar to set the dye into the wool. Leave for 30 more minutes (I know some dyers only simmer with the vinegar for 15 minutes, but to be sure the wool is color fast, you should leave it for another 30 minutes.)

Step 6 - Cool the Wool

1. Carefully move the dye bath from the stove to the sink. Wear protective gloves to prevent being burned.

2. Slowly cool the wool by running first warm, then tepid, then cool water over the wool. Do not go immediately from hot bath to cold rinse or you could felt your wool, making it too thick for hooking. You can also just turn off the fire under the pot and allow the wool to cool in the dye pot overnight. I usually can't wait that long to see the wool!

Step 7 - Rinse & Dry the Dyed Wool

1. Remove each piece of wool from the cooled dye pot and lightly wring out excess water.

2. I rinse & spin the wool in my washing machine -- just using the rinse cycle on cold.

3. Put the wool into your dryer with a bath towel and a dryer sheet and allow to dry on medium heat. The bath rowel will help fluff the wool fibers and the dryer sheet will prevent static cling to make folding and storing much nicer. It smells good, too!

Step 8 - Enjoy Your Dyed Wool

This photo shows an ugly recycled wool 'before' & 'after' overdyeing with a rich red-brown dye formula

Open the dryer and be surprised at how beautiful your wool turned out! And then find some great storage solutions, because once you start, you won't be able to stop dyeing and collecting wool for rug hooking!

Bleaching Wool with Hydrogen Peroxide

Want to strip color from your wool before overdyeing? Don't ever bleach it - it will be very weak and even partially dissolve. You can do it safely using these instructions & products available from ProChem:

CAUTION! Please read all the directions carefully before beginning. Use all products exactly as indicated by ProChem, following any and all safety precautions. I assume no liability or responsibility for results or personal injury resulting from the use of these instructions. I simply provide them as a service to those who might wish to try this process. Any questions should be directed to the good folks at the ProChem web site.

Hydrogen peroxide is the preferred bleaching agent for white wool and the safer bleaching agent for cotton. Sodium hypochlorite (Chlorox) is sometimes used on cotton but never on wool or silk. Hypochlorite can damage cotton and will destroy wool and silk. Therefore we offer this simple method of bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide. Always do test samples before working on a large project. For additional information, visit ProChemical.com

Supplies

• 35% hydrogen peroxide, 10% strength hair bleaching peroxide, or 3% strength first aid hydrogen peroxide

• Synthrapol

• Pro Dye Activator or Soda Ash

• 56% Acetic Acid, or 5% white distilled vinegar
   

To bleach one pound of wool fabric or yarn:

1. Scour the fabric by machine washing in hot , 140oF (60oC), water or by hand in a pot on the stove with 1/2 teaspoon Pro Dye Activator or Soda Ash and 1/2 teaspoon Synthrapol per pound of fabric. Rinse thoroughly.
 

2. To prepare the bleaching solution in a stainless steel or unchipped enamel pot, begin with 4 quarts of cool water, and then add:

• 7 1/2 Tablespoon Pro Dye Activator or Soda Ash

• 1 tsp Synthrapol

• 1 cup of 35% Hydrogen Peroxide (if you cannot obtain 35% strength hydrogen peroxide, use 3 1/2 cups 10% strength hair bleaching peroxide or 6 pints 3% first aid hydrogen peroxide.)

3. Heat the bath to 130oF (55oC), and then turn off the heat.

4. Add the scoured fabric or yarn. Stir to ensure thorough saturation. Place a small plate or dish on top of fabric, and then add weights to make sure fabric remains below the surface of the bleaching solution; water-filled glass jars with lids make excellent weights.

5. Allow to fabric to remain in the bleach solution for 16 to 24 hours in a room no cooler than 70oF (21oC), and then pour off the liquid and rinse the fabric well in warm water.

6. Neutralize the wool for 10 minutes in a solution of 1 Tablespoon of 56%Acetic Acid or 11 Tablespoon of 5% white vinegar per gallon of warm water.

7. Rinse fabric well and dry or squeeze out excess liquid.

8. Wool is now ready to be overdyed using your favorite acid reactive dyes.